From the Wichita Historical Aircraft Modelers and the Kansas Sunflower
Squadron
Dyeing Condenser Paper
by Bill Henn
Condenser paper (c-paper) is a nonporous, delicate,
and extremely light weight material whose primary
use is as a dielectric in electronic capacitators.
It also has gained a fair amount of popularity as a
covering material for certain types of indoor
models.
In its natural state this paper has an unrealistic
off-white appearance that creates a problem with
using the substance on scale models. In order to
make condenser paper resemble the color of an actual
aircraft, it is usually necessary to dye the
material. After several unsuccessful attempts to
color condenser paper, I finally developed the
following method which is simple and works most of
the time. The c-paper I used was obtained from
Oldtimer Model supplies. It was its lightest grade.
Before coloring the paper, it will be necessary to
construct a number of frames from scrap lumber. The
larger the frames, the more difficult the coloring
operation will be. The frames I use measure 12 by 14
inches and are made from one-inch-square hardwood.
Make sure the wood you use is rigid enough to resist
flexing because the c-paper later shrinks.
Using a 50% mixture of white glue and water, affix
the c-paper to the frames. Be careful not to pull
the paper too tight. About one-half inch of slack in
the center of the frame is about right. If the
material is too tight, it will tear when it shrinks.
Wrinkles will develop in the c-paper if it is
applied unevenly or too loosely on the frame. Minor
wrinkles can be removed from the finished product by
pressing with an ordinary household iron set on low
heat. Some experimentation may be necessary before
you find the right amount of slack.
After the glue dries, the dye can be applied. I have
tried a number of different dyes and colors with
varying degrees of success. The results obtained
using a 50% mixture of Yellow Higgins Drawing Ink
and water were the most consistent.
Using a soft, one-inch brush, paint the c-paper with
the dye. Stand the frame vertically on its edge and
pull the brush carefully across the surface of the
paper without pressing. If the brush is well loaded
with the dye it will not drag and tear the paper.
When the c-paper is thoroughly wet, take a ball of
cotton, approximately one and a half inches in
diameter, and use this swab to distribute the dye
evenly over the c-paper and to soak up the excess
liquid. Because c-paper has very little wet
strength, extreme care is necessary during this
stage of the operation. When the dye dries,
hopefully you will have a wrinkle-free, uniformly
colored piece of condenser paper on the frame, which
at a glance resembles yellow Japanese tissue. The
material can now be cut from the frame and applied
to a model with your favorite adhesive.
I
use a 50% or weaker mixture of white glue and water
for this purpose also. If you want to shrink the
c-paper after it is applied to the model this can be
accomplished to a limited degree by light steaming.
Some shrinking ability will still remain in the
c-paper even after being colored.
It
is advisable to color a surplus of c-paper and store
what is not used. If it is ever necessary to patch
the model, you will be assured of a close color
match. Although I carefully measure the proportions
of dye and water, each batch of paper that is
colored seems to have a slightly different hue.
After reading the foregoing, you may decide to stick
with Japanese tissue. Admittedly Japanese tissue is
more rugged and easier to work with, but if you are
intending to build a highly competitive scale model,
the reduction in weight resulting from the use of
condenser paper may make the difference between
winning and losing contests. My son, Billy, and I
each built identical 20-inch wingspan models of the
Lacey M-10. The only difference was that he used
tissue to cover his model and I used condenser
paper. Billy’s Lacey weighs 30 grams and mine weighs
26.5 grams. The lighter model consistently out flies
the other by 15 to 20 seconds.
Q
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