Basically the only things left to install are the landing gear, propeller, receiver, battery, and switches. Wrap the receiver in foam: 1 inch on the bottom and at least 1/2 inch on the sides and top. The same goes for the battery.

    A great way to hold the receiver and battery in place is with the new hook-and-loop tie wraps. They are available at any hardware or home-improvement store.

    Glue two pieces of 1/2 spruce, with a clearance cut for the tie wraps in the center, to the fuselage floor to serve as anchors.

    As do most ARFs, the Hobbistar 60 uses wire main landing gear. The only problem is the lack of clearance for the 90¡ bend that is inserted into the fuselage. The hole is good, but the main gear will not sit level in the slot provided because of the bend the bent part sticks up.

    The solution is to cut a small clearance notch with either the high-speed tool or a knife. Once the gear is fully seated in the opening, install the two straps as shown in the directions.

    When the airframe is completely assembled, install the muffler and the propeller. In more than 35 years of modeling, I have found only one way to ensure a secure, obstruction-free muffler installation. Clean out the engine and muffler bolt holes with denatured alcohol. Apply removable thread-locking compound on the threaded holes and onto the bolts themselves.

    Even though many thread-locking compounds may crystallize at temperatures higher than 200 degrees F, this process actually seems to enhance the compound's locking effect. Removing the muffler bolts from an engine that has been run for a while requires far more force than removing them from an engine that has not been run much. The bolt areas, air-cooled and located away from the combustion area, should not be reaching too far above this temperature anyway, unless the engine is run with a lean mixture.

    In this case, the O.S. Max .61 FSR engine had a crankshaft that was larger than the APC 12 x 6 propeller's hole. This is common since commercial propellers must be made to fit the smallest-size crankshaft in their respective engine displacements.

    Propeller reamers, in metric and English sizes, are necessary for any modeler. Purchase one of each (usually four sizes in one reamer) at your local hobby shop. These inexpensive tools automatically center the hole as it is being enlarged and are sized to fit all common crankshafts. They will last a lifetime and will be used often. The reamer will also properly size spinner-backplate holes.    

Click on photo to view large image with caption

The Hobbistar 60 Mk III is complete with all the modifications. I skipped some common assembly steps since all ARF directions cover them.

    However, it still isn't time to rush out to the field. You still have to balance the model, front to back and side to side. You have to check and set control movements. You must also determine transmitter settings and perform several other checks before that first flight. Next month we'll do all this and fly the airplane.  MA 

Frank Granelli
24 Old Middletown Rd.
Rockaway NJ 07866