Before starting to install the thread you must power up your full RC system, making sure that the rudder and elevator trim levers are in their neutral positions. Before applying the power, it's a good idea to remove the propeller to preclude any accident should the motor start inadvertently. After neutralizing the control positions, turn all of the power off. 

You can see in the photos how the thread is passed through the two outer holes of the servo output arm. A drop of CyA will prevent the thread from slipping through the holes. On the particular servos I employed, the output arm touched the wing pylon. It was a simple job to cut off approximately 1/8 inch of the outer portion of the arm, losing the outboard hole (two still remained!).

Run both ends of the thread out to the rear of the model, and attach one to the top of the dowel control horn and the other to the bottom. Pull each end of the thread tight, wrap it around the dowel horn several times, then place a drop of CyA on the thread to hold it to the dowel. Repeat this process for the rudder. You end up with four lengths of thread running from the servos to the rear of the model (two for the elevator and two for the rudder).

I'll write more next month about verifying the correct control direction and the amount of control movement necessary for your first flight. 

I mounted the Electronic Speed Control (ESC) on the side of the pylon with the help of more Mounting Tape. There is some excess wire or cabling because of the short distances between components. I bundled up some of this excess wire and tied it together with a couple of extra nylon ties. The switch, which is part of the ESC, was conveniently tied to one of the landing-gear legs.

The final item was to run the receiver antenna wire out to the top of the vertical fin and attach it with a nylon tie. There is quite a bit of excess antenna wire that trails beyond the model. Don't be tempted to cut any of this wire off because it will adversely affect the radio range.