| Model Aviation Home | |||
![]() |
![]() by Bob Aberle |
||
|
Final Assembly: Put the covered or painted stabilizer in position at the rear of the fuselage. If you covered the stabilizer, mark the area where it will mount to the fuselage and remove the covering material from that area. This will allow the cement to adhere properly (wood-to-wood surface). If you opted to paint the stabilizer, mark the area then rough it up a bit with sandpaper. Hold the stabilizer in position and try to eyeball the alignment so that the stabilizer is roughly parallel to the wing center-section. You can place a straightedge on top of the fuselage, in the vicinity of the wing, to help with this alignment. Once you have it right, add a few pins to hold the stabilizer in position. Quickly use a few drops of thin cyanoacrylate glue (CyA) to lock everything in place, then follow up with five-minute epoxy. On top of the stabilizer mark the area where the vertical fin will be installed. Remove the covering from that spot or rough it up with sandpaper if you painted it. Try to eyeball the alignment so that the fin is at right angles to the stabilizer. Pin it in place temporarily, add a few drops of thin CyA, and apply five-minute epoxy. Now you can finish the upper forward fuselage sheeting. Add an air scoop on top, behind the firewall location. It will allow air to enter and circulate around the motor for cooling purposes. This is important. In the Pogo the motor just "hung out," and air was free to circulate. The Scratch-One has an enclosed fuselage; therefore, you must provide cooling air. You will also have to cut an air exit hole in the bottom sheeting just in front of former F2. This is also essential for properly cooling the motor. When completed, cover or paint the top forward portion of the fuselage. The motor will then be totally enclosed. If you wanted, you could make an access hatch cover. It is just as easy to remove that top piece of sheeting on the rare occasion when you have to access or change a motor. On the forward fuselage bottom, between the firewall and the air exit hole, I added a protective skid. It is a piece of 1/32-inch plastic that is adhered to the fuselage bottom with double-stick tape. This skid will help protect the bottom of the airplane when it's landing. Now the Hitec Electron 6 receiver can be installed on the top of the battery-compartment floor (under the wing) with double-stick tape. Plug the rudder servo cable into CH1, the elevator servo cable into CH2, and the Electronic Speed Control (ESC) cable into CH3. Run the receiver antenna out a hole in the right side of the fuselage, then out to the top of the vertical fin where a small nylon tie keeps it in place. Leave the remainder of the antenna railing off the rear of the model. Under no circumstances should you shorten this antenna wire. Plug in your eight-cell battery. Make sure, for safety purposes, that you don't have the propeller mounted on the motor. Turn on the transmitter, then turn on the Jeti ESC switch. At this point, moving the rudder-control stick on the Neon transmitter should move the rudder servo (left side of fuselage). When moving the elevator-control stick, the elevator servo (right side of fuselage) should move. Moving the throttle-control lever on the rear of the Neon transmitter should turn the motor on and off and vary the speed. Turn off the ESC switch, then turn off the transmitter switch. Click on photo to view large image with caption |
|||
|
Model Aviation Home |
|||