Now it's time to hook up the servo output arms to the control horns on the elevator and rudder at the rear of the model. I selected the Du-Bro Micro Push Rod System (catalog number 847). It consists of two lengths of .032-inch-diameter wire that slips inside a clear plastic jacket (tubing).

At one end the wire is bent at a right angle. You insert this into the outer hole of a Du-Bro Micro Control Horn (catalog number 848) that has been attached to the rudder and elevator. The wire is held to the control horn with a small E/Z Link Keeper (which is supplied).

At the servo end you must attach the supplied Mini E/Z Connectors to both output arms. These connectors will let you adjust the control-surface positions. Once set, you tighten the screw on top of the connector.

When making that final control-surface adjustment, your transmitter and receiver should be on and the trim levers set at their neutral positions. When moving the control sticks, observe that right is right, up is up, etc. If the controls are backward, open the Neon transmitter case, find the cable for the appropriate channel function, unplug it, rotate it 180¡, and plug it back in. Then the control should be in the right direction.

The last item is to place an anchor for the control-rod sleeve approximately halfway between the servos and the control horn. I also made an additional support on the elevator control-rod sleeve in the vicinity of the stabilizer leading edge.

The Du-Bro Mini E/Z Connector supplied with the catalog-number-847 pushrod system is sold separately as Du-Bro catalog number 845. If you order these connectors by number 845, they come with a long and a short mounting pin. To mount the connectors on your servo output arm, you will need the longer pin version. A good source for this Du-Bro hardware is Gabe Baltaian at Air Dynamics ([718] 396-4765 or www.airdyn.com). Also, you will have to drill out (enlarge) the holes on the servo output arm to accept the longer pins of the Du-Bro Mini E/Z Connector.

While you still have everything powered up, it is a good idea to check the amount of control throw for the rudder and the elevator. The rudder movement that worked best for me was 1/2 inch either side of the neutral position. The elevator movement turned out to be more than I wanted—so much more that it even interfered with the rudder movement. Fortunately the Neon transmitter lets you adjust the amount of elevator control. I was able to reduce the throw to 5/16 inch (either side of neutral), which worked out perfect.

Among the last things to add are the five 1/8-inch-diameter wood dowels; two are used as wing hold-down dowels. I use six No. 33 rubber bands to keep the wing in place. The three other dowels hold the battery pack and connector set in position. Just insert each dowel, apply a small amount of thin CyA, and follow with a light spray of accelerator.

The battery pack is held in place with several No. 33 rubber bands. It is easy to remove for charging purposes or to swap with a freshly charged battery pack. You can do this without removing the wing.

It is a good idea to unplug the battery when you're not flying. That's a general safety tip for electric-powered models. I also learned that even with the Jeti switch turned off, some power is still consumed and that will run the battery down in only a day or two. That's another reason to unplug the battery.