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This drawing shows the
assembled bench and provides a key to the location of the
various parts. You can modify the bench to suit you or your
club’s special needs. (Click on photos to enlarge.) |
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These are all the individual
parts that are combined to make a safety bench. Notice that all
the required dimensions are included. |
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This is the parts key for the
bench-top assembly, which is depicted in this drawing. |
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This is the parts key for the
side view of the safety bench. |
Assembly: We built five benches at a time and made templates
of all the pieces to be used for building more tables in the future. The
wood for all five tables was precut.
Construct the bench tops first. Predrill all screw holes with a 7/64
drill to prevent the wood from splitting. Lay the 2 x 6s over the two 2
x 4 crossbraces. Note that the rear crossbrace is inset the width of a 2
x 4 on each side. After spacing the top pieces evenly, insert one screw
in each corner of the top pieces. Square the whole thing with the
framing square, and screw in the other screws on each piece. Use two
screws on each end.
After the top is constructed, add the horizontal spine centered under
the middle, long 2 x 6 top piece. The spine must be notched where it
meets the rear crossbrace. This notch does not have to be precise; it
can be cut with a Skil saw then knocked out with a hammer. Make several
cuts before knocking it out. You can use a chisel if you prefer. Use six
evenly spaced screws to fasten the spine.
Why not
make this a priority club project this year?
Add the 2 x 4 front legs. Use two screws on each. Draw guidelines
across both legs at 26 inches and 271⁄2 inches. The legs are attached 10
inches back from the front of the top and with the top centered between
the guidelines. Make sure the 26-inch length is toward the bottom.
Turn the table upside down, and add the 1 x 6 x 24 field-box supports.
These should be butted against the spine and back against the leg. Use
at least seven screws on each support. Add the 2 x 4 angled side braces
next with two screws on each end. Make sure to square the legs before
screwing in the braces.
Add the front 1 x 4 angled braces. Screw in the bottom of the front one
first, then square the other leg left to right before screwing in the
top screws. Repeat with the other brace.
The rear leg is attached by butting it against the spine end. Use two
screws in the spine. Add the short 2 x 4 angled brace in the same
manner. Attach the 1 x 4 small angled braces on each side. Turn the
table right-side up. Insert three more screws through the middle top
piece into the rear leg and two screws on each rear comer of the top
into the 2 x 4 angled brace that was previously installed.
Attach the 1 x 4 topside rails on both sides. Use a piece of scrap 1 x 4
as a height guide. Add scrap carpet to the airplane wing restraints
using 1/2-inch T-50 staples or 1/4-inch roofing nails. The carpet
protects the wing from dings while the airplane is on the bench.
Variations: We built a bench for Giant Scale airplanes by
lowering the top height by seven inches and extending the center top
piece by six inches. The 2 x 4 leg/restraint lengths are not changed, so
the restraint height is increased by seven inches. The rear leg is 19
inches. If a wider top is needed to accommodate wider landing gear,
additional top pieces can be added. This Giant Scale bench is well
liked.
Wheels can be added to the front legs so that one person can move the
table more easily. If wheels are added, the rear leg will have to be
extended to make up the difference of the wheel height.
Cup hooks on which to hang a transmitter can be added to the edge of the
bench or the box supports. Why not make this a priority club project
this year?
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